Frankincense

Frankincense: Science Backed Skincare from East African Heritage

Frankincense (the aromatic resin of Boswellia trees) has been prized for millennia in Africa and Asia for its healing and cosmetic uses. In East African culture, natural resins and oils play a key role in beauty and wellness rituals. Maris Sustainable Skincare, a brand “rooted in Tanzanian wisdom,” emphasizes this heritage. Today, modern science is uncovering frankincense’s powerful skin benefits from soothing inflammation and scavenging free radicals to promoting collagen and evening skin tone. We explore the evidence behind these effects, the cultural context in East Africa, and the importance of ethical sourcing as Maris looks to responsibly integrate frankincense into future formulations.

What Is Frankincense and Where It Comes From

Frankincense (also called Luban) is the resin tapped from Boswellia trees. These trees thrive in arid highlands of East Africa, the Horn of Africa, and the Arabian Peninsula. Harvesters make careful cuts in the bark so that the sticky sap “cries” out and hardens into golden resin tears. The image below shows a harvester collecting frankincense resin:

Frankincense resin is obtained by cutting Boswellia tree bark and collecting the gum that exudes. Traditional collectors in Africa and Arabia have practiced this for generations . Key species include Boswellia papyrifera (Sudan/Ethiopia/East Africa) and B. sacra (Arabian Peninsula) . (Tanzania does not produce large amounts of frankincense, but East African botanical knowledge is shared across the region.) Chemically, frankincense resin is rich in volatile oils (monoterpenes like α-pinene, octanol, etc.) and triterpene acids (boswellic acids) . This complex mix underlies its effects on skin.

Boswellia resins were traded and used extensively in ancient rituals, medicine and perfumery . Although frankincense is most famous from Somalia, Ethiopia and the Arabian Peninsula, Tanzania’s own natural skincare heritage similarly prizes plant botanicals for beauty. Maris’s founder emphasizes that her formulations are “rooted in Tanzanian wisdom” , drawing on local knowledge of botanicals. In this spirit, Maris is investigating how a once-overlooked resin like frankincense can be sustainably used to address modern skincare needs.

Traditional and Tanzanian Heritage Context

East African cultures have long valued natural remedies for skin and health. Coastal and inland communities historically burned resins (frankincense, myrrh) for purification and used plant oils for skincare. Swahili and Bantu traditions include rubbing botanical butters (shea, coconut) and herbal pastes on the skin to nourish and protect. While Boswellia frankincense is not native to mainland Tanzania, the idea of using African sourced, tree derived ingredients is very much in line with Tanzanian and regional practice. Maris explicitly highlights “Tanzania’s natural skincare heritage”, underscoring the cultural resonance of using homegrown or African ingredients in beauty regimens. In short, frankincense fits Maris’s ethos of combining science with African tradition an ancient African ingredient scrutinized through modern dermatology.

Key Active Compounds in Frankincense

Frankincense resin contains several classes of bioactive compounds:

● Boswellic acids (triterpenes): These pentacyclic acids (e.g. β-boswellic acid) are among the most potent constituents. They exhibit strong anti-inflammatory activity and modulate signaling pathways in cells .

● Monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes: Volatile oils like α-pinene, 1-octanol, and incensole contribute to the aroma and have biological effects. For example, α-pinene (a major fraction) can inhibit skin inflammation and prevent collagen-degrading enzymes .

● Phenolic compounds and esters: Molecules such as incensole acetate may also play a role; one study found incensole-enriched frankincense oil could suppress melanin production in skin models .

Understanding these components explains why frankincense works on skin. In the lab and clinic, researchers have begun isolating these compounds or using frankincense extracts to test their effects on skin cells and tissue.

Dermatological Benefits of Frankincense

Modern research confirms many traditional claims about frankincense. Clinically supported skin benefits include:

Reducing Inflammation and Calming the Skin

Frankincense is strongly anti-inflammatory, helping to soothe redness, irritation or swelling. This stems largely from boswellic acids. For example, boswellic acids inhibit pro-inflammatory enzymes (such as 5-lipoxygenase) and cytokine pathways . In skin models, frankincense oil and its isolated constituents have been shown to suppress NF-κB signaling and COX-2 expression , key steps in the inflammation cascade. Topical application of frankincense oil, α-pinene or related terpenes significantly reduced inflammatory cell infiltration and cytokines in animal studies .

In one notable trial, a 0.5% boswellic acid (Frankincense-derived) cream applied daily led to clinical improvements in photo-aged human facial skin . After 30 days, women using the boswellic acid formula showed significantly smoother texture and fewer fine lines on the treated side of their face . Biomarker analyses confirmed increased elasticity and dermal remodeling. Because inflammation is a core driver of acne, eczema and aging, these anti-inflammatory effects mean frankincense can help calm breakouts and sensitive skin. Together, research shows that frankincense “may represent a suitable treatment option” for inflammatory skin conditions and photoaging .

Providing Antioxidant Defense

Oxidative stress (from UV light, pollution, etc.) damages skin cells and accelerates aging.

Frankincense delivers antioxidants that neutralize free radicals. Laboratory assays find that Boswellia extracts powerfully scavenge radicals (up to ~84.7% DPPH neutralization) . In one study, an ethanolic extract of Boswellia sacra showed 84.66% free radical scavenging capacity at a certain dose .

Animal studies demonstrate how this translates to skin health. In UVB-exposed rats, frankincense essential oil (and nanocarrier formulations of it) restored antioxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) that were depleted by UV damage . By reactivating these natural defenses, frankincense prevents oxidative injury to collagen and elastin fibers. This helps maintain firm, resilient skin and reduces the formation of age spots. (Notably, the same studies showed frankincense also lowered inflammatory markers like IL-6 and NF-κB in UV-stressed skin , linking the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions.)

The antioxidant potency of frankincense complements its anti-inflammatory action. Together, these give frankincense rich cell-protective benefits, helping skin resist UV and environmental damage that otherwise trigger wrinkles, sagging, and dullness .

Supporting Collagen, Elasticity and Anti-Aging

Damage to collagen and elastin is a hallmark of aging skin. Frankincense helps both by stimulating collagen synthesis and inhibiting its breakdown. Its boswellic acids and terpenes target matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) – the enzymes that degrade collagen. Chronic UV exposure and inflammation elevate MMP-1 and MMP-9, causing collagen loss and wrinkles .

In studies, frankincense oil formulations downregulated MMP-1 and MMP-9 levels in UV-irradiated skin . Meanwhile, transforming growth factor β (TGF-β), which promotes collagen production, was upregulated by frankincense treatment . The result is more procollagen (new collagen) being made and less existing collagen being damaged.

Clinically, this translates to firmer, smoother skin. The boswellic acid trial described above reported that skin elasticity measurably improved with frankincense treatment . Histological analyses also showed the treatment side had better dermal structure than untreated skin. In simpler terms: frankincense helped “reshape dermal tissue” and reduce wrinkles .

In addition, major terpenes like α-pinene and linalool in frankincense contribute anti-aging effects. For example, α-pinene was shown to prevent MMP induction in sun-exposed skin by blocking NF-κB activation , reinforcing the collagen-sparing effect. Together, boswellic acids and volatile oils in frankincense form a natural anti-aging complex – protecting collagen/elastin and encouraging youthful regeneration .

Brightening Skin Tone and Reducing Hyperpigmentation

Uneven pigmentation and dark spots often accompany aging or inflammation. Intriguingly, new research suggests frankincense can even out skin tone as well. A 2024 zebrafish study of frankincense volatile oil (enriched in incensole) found “great depigmentation activity” . The oil inhibited melanin synthesis and reduced oxidative stress markers in the model, showing both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action . In network analysis, it implicated key pigmentation pathways (e.g. MAPK, STAT3) being modulated .

Translated to humans, this means frankincense could help fade dark spots and promote a more uniform complexion. Traditional anecdotes already claim frankincense helps with scars and blemishes, and these lab results provide a biochemical basis. The free-radical scavenging (antioxidant) effect also assists by preventing melanin overproduction driven by UV damage or inflammation. Though more clinical trials are needed, the evidence points to frankincense as a natural brightening agent that can complement skincare for hyperpigmentation .

Antimicrobial and Healing Support

Frankincense also shows antimicrobial properties that soothe skin ailments. In one study, a

Boswellia sacra extract exhibited notable antibacterial activity, especially against Staphylococcus aureus, a common skin pathogen . This aligns with frankincense’s traditional use in healing ointments and incense to purify and protect skin. By helping control bacteria, frankincense can aid acne-prone or troubled skin.

Moreover, its resinous nature lends minor sealing and wound-healing qualities. Boswellia extracts have been integrated into topical formulas for skin infections and inflammatory conditions . For example, a frankincense-based cream showed excellent texture and spreadability in tests, suggesting it would feel pleasant on skin while delivering its antibacterial/antioxidant actives . Altogether, frankincense not only calms inflammation and oxidation, but also helps create an environment where skin can recover.

Sustainability and Ethical Sourcing

While frankincense offers notable benefits, its value has led to sustainability concerns. Wild Boswellia populations in East Africa are delicate. Overharvesting, habitat loss and climate change have caused some frankincense species to decline. FairWild – a botanical conservation initiative – reports that decades of low demand left Boswellia groves intact under traditional stewardship, but recent booms in fragrance and skincare markets threaten that balance . Over-tapping trees, as well as pressures from overgrazing or land conversion, risk exhausting wild resins .

For example, in Somalia and northern Kenya (major frankincense regions), communities note that unstable prices and few buyer regulations have led to unsustainable tapping rates . In some areas, armed conflict or untrained collectors have damaged trees or undercut the ecosystem. The result: fewer trees reaching maturity and less resin each season – a loss for both nature and people.

Recognizing this, ethical sourcing is crucial. Projects like FairWild are working to certify sustainable frankincense harvests in East Africa. They map the supply chains, work with harvesters on best practices, and ensure fair payment . The goal is a win-win: local families gain secure incomes while trees are managed carefully (limiting incisions and giving time to heal) . As FairWild notes, their initiative “ensuring that harvesting communities get the recognition and rights they deserve and providing consumers with ethically and sustainably sourced frankincense” .

Maris is committed to these values. We recognize that any frankincense used in our products must be eco-conscious. That means partnering with trusted suppliers or certification programs that protect Boswellia trees and ecosystems . It also means investing in community: supporting the people who harvest frankincense, who often rely on it as a livelihood. By upholding transparency and education in our sourcing (as Maris’s mission emphasizes ), we ensure that the skincare benefits come hand-in-hand with sustainable, fair-trade ethics.

Maris Sustainable Skincare and Frankincense

Maris Sustainable Skincare is founded on blending African botanical wisdom with rigorous science . In line with our mission of “accessible luxury skincare designed for Tanzanian skin and climate” , we continually research ingredients from our heritage and the latest dermatology literature. Frankincense stands out as a promising candidate: it is deeply linked to African heritage and now backed by evidence of real skin benefits.

While Maris has not yet launched a frankincense-based product, we are actively exploring it. Any future frankincense formulation will be developed in collaboration with local experts and scientists, to validate its safety and efficacy on Tanzanian skin types. At the same time, we will only source resin that meets our strict sustainability criteria. In practice, this could involve FairWild-certified Boswellia or community partnerships that ensure the resin is hand-tapped responsibly.

By taking this approach, Maris aims to bring frankincense’s ancient magic into modern skincare in a conscientious way. We will educate our customers about what frankincense is, where it comes from, and why it’s beneficial — reflecting our brand’s emphasis on education and transparency . In doing so, we honor both the science and the African heritage behind the ingredient.

Conclusion

Frankincense is more than just an exotic scent; it is a bioactive resin with science-backed benefits for skin. Its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial actions calm irritation and acne, its antioxidants protect against aging, and its collagen-supporting compounds help skin stay firm and smooth. Recent studies in animals and humans confirm that frankincense (and its key components like boswellic acids) can measurably improve skin roughness, elasticity and tone . These properties align perfectly with the desires of clean, effective skincare seekers.

For Tanzanians and East Africans, frankincense resonates with a sense of regional heritage.

By utilizing frankincense in our future products, Maris Sustainable Skincare connects

“Tanzania’s natural skincare heritage” with cutting edge science. We remain committed to doing so responsibly ensuring every drop of frankincense in our formulas is ethically sourced and eco-conscious.

As research progresses, Maris will continue to monitor the latest findings on frankincense. We look forward to harnessing this ancient African gift in a way that empowers local communities and delivers visible, science-based results for our customers. In blending tradition with evidence-based formulation, Maris reaffirms that the best skincare ingredients can be both sustainable and rooted in African culture.

Sources: Recent scientific studies and reviews of Boswellia (frankincense) have been cited throughout (PLOS One, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Planta Medica, Frontiers in Medicine, etc.) confirming the benefits described. Maris brand statements are from our published mission and community content. All claims here are supported by peer reviewed research or ethnobotanical sources as noted.